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Published Sept/Oct 2005 Left: Lederhosen and oompah music fill the German Village neighborhood in Columbus, Ohio, during its Oktoberfest. German Village Oktoberfest photo Below: Traditional German dancers at the Oktoberfest-Zinzinnati celebration. Greater Cincinnati Convention and Visitors Bureau photo
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Throughout the Midwest,
cities celebrate this rite of autumn with fun fests. By Mike Michaelson |
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 rom Munich to Michigan, Oktoberfests are larger than life, with clinking steins of frothy beer, heaping platters of wurst and rousing oompah music. Locals break out their lederhosen, dirndl dresses and jaunty felt hats. Strangers seated elbow-to-elbow in beer tents strike up friendships, lock arms and sway back and forth, singing happily together. Of course, there’s plenty of gemütlichkeit, a German word describing the warm, mystical spirit of good fellowship.Oktoberfest–a rite of autumn–owes its origins to the 1810 marriage celebration of Bavaria’s Crown Prince Ludwig (later to become King Ludwig I) and Princess Therese of Saxony-Hildburghausen. Revelers had so much fun at the Munich festivities that they decided to continue the observance annually. This year’s Munich festival is Sept. 16 through October. After nearly two centuries, the party is still going, celebrated in thousands of communities worldwide, including dozens of locales throughout the Midwest. Here are a few favorites. In and around Ohio Cincinnati organizes a block party with plenty of oomph–and lots of oompah–as a section of downtown around Fifth Street and historic Fountain Square are transformed into a colorful Bavarian village. A half million fun seekers are attracted by what is touted as the nation’s largest authentic Oktoberfest with none other than the Mayor of Munich annually decreeing Oktoberfest-Zinzinnati (Sept. 17–18) to be the largest outside of his domain. There is no admission fee to the festival. Along with authentic food and beer, the festival annually brings in a German orchestra. Visitors will find about 80 booths offering food, libations and assorted souvenirs. With the festival attracting such large crowds, it is no wonder that these vendors serve 87,542 mettwurst, 80,500 bratwurst, 3,600 pounds of sauerkraut, 400 pickled pigs’ feet and 702 pounds of Limburger cheese. Unique to this particular Oktoberfest is the “World’s Largest Chicken Dance,” which was inaugurated in 1992. Two years later, with the Crown Prince of Bavaria in attendance, the event set the Guiness Book world record with 48,000 chicken dancers. In Columbus, Ohio, German Village is a solid, historic neighborhood. Uneven brick streets hand-laid in a herringbone pattern are lined with trees and brick cottages with slate roofs built by German brewery workers. The entire district is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. This is the setting for a massive Oktoberfest (Sept. 30–Oct. 2) that offers 32 bands on three stages and a wide variety of German foods. Other festival favorites include a kinderplatz children’s area and a marketplatz filled with artisans and shops. Festival admission is $8 for adults; children 12 and younger are free. In the heart of German Village, pretty Schiller Park is flanked by the former homes of wealthy brewmeisters. Although the river is the Ohio and not the Rhine, along its southern banks is a little piece of Germany in Covington, Ky. MainStrasse Village is a National Historic District with landmarks that include the Carroll Chimes Bell Tower, a traditional glockenspiel with a 43-bell carillon. The bronze Goose Girl Fountain recalls the region’s geese farming history as it portrays the central character from a Grimms’ fairy tale. Journey to nearby Newport to visit Hofbräuhaus, the first American branch of the famed Munich beer hall. Oktoberfest at MainStrasse Village (Sept. 9–11) stretches six city blocks and has three stages of entertainment, with the music of Germany showcased in a huge tent in Goebel Park. Local clogging groups perform between bands. German food includes mettwurst and bratwurst with sauerkraut, potato pancakes and Bavarian crème puffs. Find close to 100 arts-and-crafts vendors and a kinderplatz with children’s activities. There is no admission fee to the festival. Oktoberfest in American beer cities They’re bringing out the big brass for the second Oktoberfest in St. Louis’ historic Soulard neighborhood (Oct. 21–23). The Original Antrifttaler Musikanten Band, a 25-member brass band from Germany, performs as headliners. Sharing center stage is Brave Combo, recently awarded a second Grammy for the best album in the polka category. Along with music and German folk dancers, festivalgoers will find plenty of German food, as well as imported beer from Munich, plus local and domestic brews. There is no admission fee, but tickets for a German dinner and show with music by Original Antrifttaler Musikanten Band are $40. To purchase tickets, call (314) 368-3419. Opened in 1838, Soulard Market at Seventh and Lafayette streets claims distinction as the oldest continuously operated farmers’ market west of the Mississippi. In the 1840s, Germans moved into the neighborhood, which now contains restored 19th-century red brick homes. Soulard’s neighbor to the south is the massive Anheuser-Busch Brewery complex, where the famed Clydesdales are pampered in stables decorated with stained glass and chandeliers. In the mid-19th century, German immigrants flooded into Milwaukee, Wis., which became home to beer barons such as Pabst, Schlitz and Miller. According to the 2000 census, 38 percent of Milwaukee residents reported having a German heritage. With this background, it is not surprising that “Brewtown” throws an authentic Bavarian Oktoberfest. It runs on three consecutive weekends after Labor Day–Sept. 9–11, 16–18, and 23–25–at Old Heidelberg Park, and is organized by the United German Societies of Milwaukee. Admission is $4 for Friday or Saturday, $3 on Sunday. Along with the bratwurst, visitors can sample spanferkel (young pig spit-roasted over an open pit) and rollbraten (sliced pork roast on a Kaiser roll). Continuous entertainment includes German brass bands, folk dancing, singing and yodeling. On the first Sunday, the Oktoberfest queen is chosen. Other Midwest festivals Often called “Little Germany,” Hermann, Mo., was founded in the 1830s by German immigrants who chose the area because it reminded them of the Rhine Valley in Germany. Still celebrating their heritage, the townsfolk will host Oktoberfest festivities over the first four weekends in October. Several of the wineries in the area will feature German food, entertainment, tours, wine tastings, crafts, and of course, duck dancing. Vistors also can tour the Deutschheim State Historic Site, which features two historic homes that preserve the culture and heritage of the German people who migrated to Missouri in the 19th century. For details, about Hermann, call 1-800-932-8687, or visit online at www.hermannmo.info. Kansas City, Mo., holds its Oktoberfest (Sept. 23–25) on the waterfront at Richard L. Berkley River Front Park. Along with plenty of German beer and food, there will be music and a children’s area. Past festivals also included fair food such as funnel cakes, turkey legs, kettle corn and cotton candy. A convenient shuttle will pick up festivalgoers along Grand, 13th, 11th, Eighth, Sixth and Fifth streets and bring them to the park for $1. Festival admission is $5 for adults; children 12 and younger are admitted free. Tucked in the rolling hills of eastern Iowa, the Amana Colonies celebrate Oktoberfest with a parade, German singing and dancing, German food and the inevitable beer tent. This year, the event will be Sept. 30–Oct. 2. Admission is $6 on Friday and Saturday and free on Sunday. Head for the restored century-old Festhalle barn for entertainment. Another popular gathering spot is Millstream Brewing Company, a microbrewery that makes German-style beers, including a tasty wheat beer and prize-winning root beer. German-Lutheran missionaries who came to teach Christianity to the Chippewa founded Frankenmuth, known as Michigan’s “Little Bavaria,” in 1845. Today, this thriving community with authentic Bavarian-style architecture preserves its German heritage. This year’s Oktoberfest will be held Sept. 15–18, in the new Harvey Kern Community Pavilion in Heritage Park. There will be music and dancing, with amusement rides for youngsters and plenty of German food and beer. A highlight is the return of the Gunzenhäuser Blous’n, a 12-piece band from Gunzenhausen, Frankenmuth’s sister city in Bavaria. Admission to the festival is $8. This fall, sample German heritage at an area Oktoberfest. Your senses will thank you. Mike Michaelson is a contributor from Chicago, Ill. |
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Nearby Oktoberfest celebrations You won’t have to travel too far to find an Oktoberfest near your hometown this fall. There’s a smorgasbord of festivals throughout Missouri, Illinois and Indiana. Here are several for your consideration: Missouri Lee’s Summit will stage its Oktoberfest on Sept. 23 and 24 downtown. German meals, a biergarten, arts and crafts and two entertainment stages will be offered. There’s even a tent just for brats. The festival is free. Info: (816) 524-2424. An Oktoberfest Craft Sale will be Oct. 7 and 8 at the John Knox Village Pavilion in Lee’s Summit. More than 100 exhibitors and German food will be available. Info: (816) 347-2999. St. Charles celebrates Oktoberfest with its sister city of Ludwigsburg, Germany, Sept. 30–Oct. 2 at Frontier Park on the riverfront. The event will feature the 22-piece Big Brass Band from Ludwigsburg. There’s also a parade, grape stomp, arts/crafts and children’s activities. The festival is free. Info: (636) 946-7123. Smithville’s annual Oktoberfest in northwest Missouri will include a street fair, concert, parade and carnival. It will be held downtown on Oct. 7 and 8. There’s no admission, but a small charge for the beer garden. Info: (816) 532-0946. In central Missouri, the German hamlet of Cole Camp will have a citywide Oktoberfest featuring German food and music on Oct. 8. The event is free. Info: (660) 668-2295. On Oct. 8 and 9, the Cole Camp Low German Theater will perform at the school auditorium. Tickets are $6 at the door. Info: (660) 668-3552. Jackson in southeast Missouri will hold Oktoberfest in its Bavarian Halle on Oct. 15. There will be German food, music and drinks. No admission fee. Info: (573) 243-8131. According to the German National Tourist Office, German consumers last year spent more on wine than beer, even though Germany is known as a beer-loving nation. It is the fourth largest wine market in the world. Perhaps that is why some Oktoberfests toast with slender-stemmed wine glasses instead of frothy mugs of beer. Tower Rock Winery in Altenburg (southeast Missouri) will hold its Oktoberfest Oct. 15 and 16 with German food and wine. The event is free. Info: (573) 824-5479. Robller Vineyard and Winery in New Haven will also hold Oktoberfest each weekend in October. It is billed as a traditional German festival, with a twist: barbecue, too. Info: (573) 237-3986. Illinois and Indiana The German village of Maeystown will hold its Oktoberfest on Oct. 9. The Maeystown Historic District is a 150-year old German settlement with 60 stone, wood and brick structures remaining from the 1800s. Today, the Corner George Inn Bed-and- Breakfast, the general store, sweet shop, restaurant, museum and visitors’ center, numerous residences, and an 1867 church have been restored. The one-lane stone arched bridge leading into town is the centerpiece of the village. Info: (618) 458-6660. German roots run deep in southern Indiana. German festivals are held throughout the year. This fall, the town of Story in Brown County will host its Oktoberfest at the Story Inn, 5–10 p.m. It will feature music food and libations. Info: 1-800-881-1183. In the past Seymour has attracted 100,000 for its annual Oktoberfest that is staged downtown. This year, the festival will be Sept. 29 and Oct. 1. Info: (812) 522-4020. Oktoberfest isn’t the only claim to Seymour’s fame. It is the town featured in the song, “Small Town,” written and performed by rocker John Mellencamp, a Jackson County native. Drink responsibly It’s best to either stay overnight at your Oktoberfest destination or to travel with a designated driver for the trip home. Alcohol severely impairs the ability to drive, so plan accordingly before setting out this fall. For a free pamphlet, “One Drink Can Be Too Many” and a designated driver sticker, send a SAS business-sized envelope to: AAA Traffic Safety Department, 12901 N. Forty Drive, St. Louis, MO 63141. –Compiled by “AAA Midwest Traveler” staff
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German dancing is part of many Oktoberfests throughout the Midwest. Missouri Tourism photos |
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