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| French Flavored | Published Jan/Feb. 2005 | ||||||
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By Diana West
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| Settled in the 1700s by French Canadians, Ste. Genevieve, Mo., is a beautiful example of a French colonial community. Situated on the Mississippi River about 60 miles south of St. Louis, the town is named after the patroness of Paris, and its French heritage is evident in architecture, celebrations and customs. Historians place the founding of Ste. Genevieve proper between 1735–40. Today, visitors can see preserved examples of a prominent French colonial architectural technique, the vertical use of logs. Surviving buildings built in this style are rare. “There are only five poteaux en terre (vertical log) homes that still exist in North America, and three of those are in Ste. Genevieve,” says Frank Myers, board member of the Foundation for the Restoration of Ste. Genevieve. The remaining two homes are in Louisiana and Mississippi. Historic homes in Ste. Genevieve The Amoureux, Bequettte-Ribault and Vital St. Gemme Beauvais homes have vertical log walls set directly into the ground without a foundation. Of these three, the Amoureux house, located at 327 St. Mary’s Road, is open to the public April through November. Although unfurnished, the house–built in 1792–has a diorama of the town as it appeared in 1832. Another French colonial home is the Louis Bolduc House, 125 Main St. Built in 1785, this National Historic Landmark is owned by the National Society of Colonial Dames of America in the State of Missouri. It is an authentically restored Creole house that can be toured April through November. A costumed guide shows its 18th-century furnishings, including a walnut armoire dating to 1770. A frontier kitchen, along with culinary and medicinal gardens, also are open to the public. The Bolduc-Le Meilleur house next door, built in 1820 by Louis Bolduc’s grandson-in-law, is an example of combined French and American influences. It will also open for tours in April. Celebrations and customs Celebrations held throughout the year honor Ste. Genevieve’s distinct French heritage. The King’s Ball, planned for Feb. 5 at the VFW Hall on Memorial Drive, attracts several hundred visitors and locals. They come dressed as priests, militia, grand dames, lords and farmers for a night of dancing and celebrating. “Vivre le roi” (long live the king) is sung, heralding the king of the year. The man who finds a Christ child figure in his slice of cake will become king. Traditional French dances are taught and perpetuated at the event. The French Heritage Festival, June 11 and 12, features French folktales, exhibits, music, foods and tours of historic homes that are not otherwise open to the public. The 39th annual Jour de Fete (Day of Celebration), Aug. 13 and 14, is one of the largest craft fairs in Missouri, attracting several hundred crafters. Some will demonstrate traditional French crafts. Open house at the Felix Vallé House State Historic Site is held the second weekend in December. “We try to re-create some customs of the early 1800s that might have been here in Ste. Genevieve,” says Jim Baker, administrator of the site. Musicians sing and play French carols. Food includes 13 desserts representing Jesus and his 12 disciples. Guides in period costumes serve a Yule log to guests. The Federal-style limestone home at Merchants and Second streets has original mantels and interior trim. A mercantile store that was part of the home has household and farm supplies that would have been sold there in the early 19th century. The site is open throughout the year for tours, Monday–Saturday, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., and Sunday, noon to 5 p.m., except Mondays in December, January and February. Fees are $2.50 for adults and $1.50 for students. Finally, townspeople and visitors eagerly await the La Guignolée (pronounced gween-yo-LAY) singers on New Year’s Eve at restaurants and other public sites around the city. La Guignolée is a French custom that some say harkens to medieval times. Others say French Canadians brought it to the area. Roving wassailers, mostly men, are composed of four lead singers dressed in frock coats and top hats. They are accompanied by two fiddle players and about 20 chanters dressed as trappers, soldiers, Oriental potentates, Indians, pirates, hoboes and clowns. The leaders sing each of the 16 verses in French followed by the chanters repeating each one while circling them in a shuffling march. The reward is food and drink. Don’t miss the mural in the post office of La Guignolée singers. Linger longer If more than a day trip is desired, lodging is available at area bed-and-breakfasts, including the Inn Ste. Gemme Beavais, the Southern Hotel and the Main Street Inn. All offer a full breakfast and most provide an evening hospitality hour with wine. The next day, consider visiting the Crown Valley Winery, Ste. Genevieve Winery, or Chaumette Vineyards and Winery located just outside town. Hop on the ferry at Modoc Landing at the end of north Main Street and ride across the Mississippi River to explore other French historic sites in Illinois, such as Fort de Chartres or the Pierre Ménard Home. Enjoy a day or two of French hospitality in Ste. Genevieve. Diana West is a contributor from Joplin, Mo. |
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