S.E. Missouri
Retrace steps of explorers and settlers along Mississippi River
When rivers provided the main form of transportation to explorers and settlers, the first towns in Missouri cropped up along the Mississippi River in the southeast corner of the state. Founded by French, German and Spanish settlers, the communities thrived on mining, farming and river trade.
Today, more than 200 years later, the river is less important in travel and commerce. But many of those original communities still flourish, and the river remains a prominent part of the fiber of the cities. With the influences of those original settlers also prevalent, cities such as Ste. Genevieve, Cape Girardeau and New Madrid offer travelers a look at the storied past of the River Heritage Region–as it is known–as well as other more modern surprises.
To best explore the region, start at the beginning in Ste. Genevieve–one of the first permanent settlements west of the Mississippi River. The city, which is about 60 miles south of St. Louis, is believed to have been founded in the late 1740s by French farmers and fur traders who migrated across the river from Kaskaskia, Ill. The town features roughly 50 historic buildings, many of which were built in the French Creole style marked by the use of vertical log framing and limestone foundations. Many of the structures are at least 200 years old, and in many ways the city still resembles that original village.
Pick up information at the Great River Road Interpretive Center, which contains photos and artifacts tracing the city’s past. From Interstate 55, take Highway 32 east, which becomes Fourth Street. Turn right on Market Street to the center at the intersection of Main and Market streets. For details, call 1-800-373-7007, or visit www.saintegenevievetourism.org.
Many of the historic homes are open for tours, some of which charge a fee. For example, the Bolduc House dates to about 1785 and is a fine example of French colonial architecture. It features period-style furnishings and an eight-foot stockade fence that protected the home from raiding Indians and the flow of cattle along the street. For hours, call (573) 883-3105.
In contrast to the French vertical log houses in town, the Felix Valle Home State Historic Site was built in 1818 in the American Federal style using stone. The historic home contains period furnishings. For hours and details, call (573) 883-7102, or visit www.mostateparks.com.
In addition to the historic homes, stop in at the Ste. Genevieve Museum, which features Civil War relics, Native American Indian artifacts, rare documents and photos. Visitors also can linger in the town’s antique and specialty shops, and stay at one of the quaint bed-and-breakfast inns.
There are also for wineries in the area: Crown Valley Winery, 1-866-207-9463 or visit www.crownvalleywinery.com; Chaumette Vineyards & Winery,
(573) 747-1000 or visit www.chaumette.com; Charleville Vineyard Winery & Microbrewery, (573) 756-4537 or visit www.charlevillevineyard.com; and the Cave Vineyard, (573) 543--5284 or visit www.cavevineyard.com.
More history awaits in Perryville, about 21 miles south of Ste. Genevieve. The city is home to the Church of St. Mary’s of the Barrens and the National Shrine of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal. Vincentian missionaries arrived from Kentucky in 1818, and their first church, a small log cabin, is preserved at the site. The present church, completed in 1837, features lovely statuary and stained glass. The chapel and grounds are open dawn–dusk daily. For tour details, call (573) 547-8344 or 1-800-264-6279, or visit www.amm.org.
Escape to Cape
From Perryville, head south on I-55 about 30 miles to Cape Girardeau, the region’s largest city with 36,000 residents. Home to Southeast Missouri State University, the city has a mix of city life and small-town atmosphere. Begin at the convention and visitors bureau to pick up tourist information. From I-55, take Highway 61 south to Broadway. Turn left on Broadway to the center at 400 Broadway. Call 1-800-777-0068, or visit www.visitcape.com.
Next, enjoy the downtown area adjacent to the Mississippi River where you’ll find shops, restaurants, pubs and several outdoor murals. The Mississippi River Tales mural is 1,100 feet long and features 24 interpretive panels. Plus, there are several historic buildings to see, including Old St. Vincent’s Church, which dates to 1853, and the Common Pleas Courthouse, which was completed in 1854 and sits on a hill overlooking downtown.
Explore the city’s history at the Cape River Heritage Museum, located in an old fire station. Artifacts, including river-related items, chronicle the city’s past. Hours are 1–6 p.m. Friday and Saturday from March–May 15 and September–December; and from 1–5 p.m. Tuesday–Sunday from May 15– August. For more details, call (573) 334-0405.
Find more history at the Glenn House, which reflects Victorian life in the late 1800s and early 1900s. And the Red House Interpretive Center commemorates the visit of Lewis and Clark in 1803 to the home of Cape founder Louis Lorimier. For details on both sites, call the Cape Girardeau Visitors Bureau.
To experience the region’s natural resources, visit the Cape Girardeau Conservation Nature Center, located in North County Park. The center has hands-on exhibits, freshwater aquariums and an indoor wildlife viewing area, as well as two miles of trails. Hours are 8 a.m.–5 p.m. Tuesday–Saturday and noon–5 p.m. Sunday. Call (573) 290-5218, or visit www.mdc.mo.gov/areas/cnc.
For an exciting trip with a touch of nostalgia visit Jackson, about five miles west of Cape Girardeau. Near the intersection of Highways 61 and 34 is the St. Louis Iron Mountain and Southern Railway. Choose from several different sightseeing excursions, including some trips that feature a robbery by Jesse James. For details, call 1-800-455-7245, or visit www.slimrr.com.
Recall more history at the Bollinger Mill State Historic Site, which features a gristmill and the state’s oldest covered bridge. From Jackson, head west on Highway 34 about five miles to the four-story stone and brick mill, located on the Whitewater River. The site also has a hiking trail, picnic sites and exhibits on milling. Adjacent to the mill is the 140-foot Burfordville Covered Bridge, which dates to 1868. Call (573) 243-4591, or visit www.mostateparks.com.
Another beautiful park about 10 miles north of Cape Girardeau is the Trail of Tears State Park on Highway 177. The 3,415-acre park is part of the “Trail of Tears,” an 800-mile march by 13,000 Cherokee Indians exiled from the East to Oklahoma in 1838–39 who crossed the Mississippi River into land that is now the park. The park offers camping, trails, an interpretive center, a lake and more. Call (573) 290-5268, or visit www.mostateparks.com.
To sample the region’s bounty, visit Tower Rock Winery in Altenburg (573-824-5479, www.tower-rock-winery.com), Hemman Winery in Brazeau (573-824-6040, www.hemmanwinery.com), and the River Ridge Winery in Commerce (573-264-3712, www.riverridgewinery.com).
Fried okra and earthquakes
To round out the day tour, head south on I-55 toward New Madrid. But first, take the Miner-Sikeston exit to visit the Sikeston Factory Outlet Mall, just west of I-55 on Malone Avenue. After building up an appetite shopping, go west on Malone Avenue 1/2 mile to Lambert’s Cafe, where waiters throw hot rolls to patrons. But they use a ladle to deliver generous portions of beans, fried okra and potatoes. Further west on Malone Avenue is the Sikeston Depot, which features exhibits on the area’s history and art displays. For details, call 1-888-309-6591, or visit www.visitsikeston-miner.com.
New Madrid, the site of the strongest recorded earthquake in North America, is about 22 miles south of Sikeston. For tourist information, stop at the chamber of commerce at 537 B Mott St. From I-55, turn left on Highway 61 for three miles and then left on Route U for 1/4 mile. Turn right on Main Street and then right again on Mott Street. For details, call 1-877-748-5300, or visit www.new-madrid.mo.us.
Three massive quakes struck the area in the winter of 1811–12, the largest of which was about 8.9 on the Richter Scale. They were felt as far away as Canada and New Orleans. The New Madrid Fault averages 300 tremors each year, most of which aren’t felt. To learn more about those historic quakes, visit the New Madrid Historical Museum, which also has displays on the Civil War, pioneer life and Native American Indians. Call (573) 748-5944.
Near downtown, step back in time at the Hunter-Dawson State Historic Site. The restored 15-room mansion, built in 1859, contains many original furnishings and reflects the splendor of mansions once common in the area. For hours and details, call (573) 748-5340, or visit www.mostateparks.com.
In addition, the city has a river observation deck, a few antique shops and the Higgerson School Historic Site, which showcases 19th-century education.
Linked inexorably with the Mississippi, the entire area overflows with the river heritage that formed its foundation and continues to shape its future.
From St. Louis, take I-55 south 60 miles to Ste. Genevieve and follow directions in the article. The approximate round-trip mileage is 452 miles.
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Jesse James and his gang rob some excursions of the St. Louis Iron Mountain and Southern Railway in Jackson, Mo. /Missouri Tourism photo |